Highlighter Action

>> It's been a LOOOONG time since I've picked up a highlighter (I prefer fluoro pink…) and actively highlighted things on a page… and I definitely have never done so in a magazine.  Then I picked up a copy of Industrie, that aims and claims to be the world's first 'culture of fashion' magazine, which I had previewed a while back… and instantly when I got home, I had to attack it with my highlighter.  I know you guys like a lot of pretty pictures but I'm afraid I don't want to scan in all the images because I do want to emphasise that this is a text-heavy publication that needs to be consumed with at least two mugs of tea and maybe a rainy day (thanks skies!).  TFS have some of the image scoop though…  and there's a very helpful magazine flick-through on video already…

Instead, I've picked out some quotes from the lengthy interview features, mostly conducted by editor Murray Healy as well as some of the tidbits I have picked up from a magazine that gets the scoop on the inside and really delve into the 'process' that people undergo as a stylist, photographer or editor.  It's a READ, not a vanity picture project… and thank god because that highlighter was about to get all dried up…

  • An excerpt from the editor's letter that actually sums up my feelings about the media on the internet… don't shoot me for thinking this…

"Then came the explosive popularity of fashion blogs, Twitter and fashion as entertainment across all media channels.  In the wake of all of that, it is easy to think that things have moved on, that fashion is now a product of a broader consensus; that today, because of sheer volume and accessibility of information, you and I shape the trends.  In fact the change is merely cosmetic.  More people simply report the same things.  True, the broader reach and faster transmission of news has certainly created a business problem in print publishing.  But when it comes to setting the fashion agenda, things have barely moved an inch."

  • From Jens Grede's conversation with Tommy Ton of Jak and Jil

"There are some who say hi and ask me how I am – you can sense they want to be photographed; those aren't the ones I'm really attracted to though.  I'm intrigued by the ones who don't want anything to do with me."

  • Sarah Mower's dream dinner guest…

"It would just be me and Martin Margiela.  So I could thank him for all the clothes I've bought from him, tell him how much he's made me laugh and spend, and hand him a signed petition from all the dispossessed cool women and men I know who want him back!"

  • A page extolling the fact that the Canon Eos 5D MkII can make most inexperienced amateurs into fully fledged pro photographers for less than ¬£2,000 – any thoughts from those that are Nikon die-hards…?

  • At Acne's headquarters in Stockholm, their lucky employees get to have lunches that consist of dishes like courgette soup with beetroot croutons, farinata of fresh garden peas with serrano ham and fennel slaw and some special Acne home made cookies – I'm demanding some of these cookies next time I go to Stockholm…

  • From the meatiest EVER interview with Katie Grand – sorry if I get a bit quote happy with this one…it's just too damn good…

"I think The Face made the wrong decisions. When we started Dazed, we were out every night living that lifestyle – at one point we didn't even go into work because the magazine was being done from my kitchen!   It is hard to do a magazine which is very much about youth culture unless you are living that lifestyle.  By that point, the staff at The Face had just got too old."

"Authority is knowledge.  If someone goes onto the Fashion Spot and writes that a certain magazine is dreadful, that's different from Cathy Horyn saying it is dreadful because there is an authoritative and experienced voice behind the latter point of view.  I don't know what I think about the whole idea of blog culture yet.  The internet is very much like snow blindness; there is so much information available but after a certain point I just can't look at it any more.  There is no real kind of beauty."

"There have been people like Victoria (Young): she was my assistant, she worked on Pop and Love and she's never fucked up, which is very rare.  She was an amazing assistant and she's an amazing fashion director: incredibly conscientious, she looks good, she's fun and she drinks, falls over and lets my rabbit piss on her."

"Fashion may have previously been a working-class profession but over the years it has shifted to become quite middle or upper class.  There are a lot of privileged people working in the industry now and sometimes it's frustrating because it seems there might not be any hunger or need to be somewhere."

  • Panos Yiapanis, whose styling 'atelier' I'm OBSESSED with also gives good word…

"I don't have the knowledge to say, 'Ok let's do something 1950s' or 'something 1960s' – I don't know what the difference is.  So even when I do bring in references, it's always self-centred.  It's always things I've done."

"That idea that stylists have assumed this position where what they wear to Fashion Week is more important than their work is kind of comical.  I hope that changes."

"A show has to excite the press and the buyers but the final product is not meant for them.  They're more the channel through which the clothes end up in the store.  So it's silly just to pander to them and not really think of why you're doing this, which is the consumer."

"Certain publications I don't want to name have used this supposed crisis as a reason to not rock the boat.  But I really think that there is a need for exciting and inspiring work right now.  Because what we're peddling is not a necessity – you can make do without the eighth handbag.  So unless you really excite a person to part with their money – and at this time it's even harder to do that unless you REALLY excite them – then they're just not going to."

13 Replies to “Highlighter Action”

  1. Oh WOW. This looks like the most amazing magazine. Where can you buy it from? ?
    Thanks for sharing those quotes with us, I found the whole thing so inspiring.
    Lots of love x

  2. Ah, thoughtful perspective. Exactly what I need right now.
    How refreshing to see a delving into that actually turns up something worth reading. It’s becoming rarer and rarer these days to find good questions and good answers living within the same article. Or maybe it’s been too diluted by the fluff. Thanks for this.

  3. Thank you thank you thank you, Susie! Great quotes! Going out to find a copy asap. Haven’t read truer words in a long while. Usually all these “State of the Fashion Industry” addresses come off so whiney, holier than thou and exclusive, but these are perfect interview subjects apt to give very honest and very real perception into the industry I love (and live). I am so excited to feed my head with this.

  4. Where did you pick up that copy? I have been looking all over for it, it’s a shame Borders have closed as I am sure they would have stocked it.
    Thanks for this post!

  5. really interesting… i liked what katie grand said in her second quote, about the ubiquitousnous[?!] of opinion vs authoritative opinion on the internet… and the “snow blindness” that becomes so tiring [particularly when blogs share the same images over and over]. i cringe both giving a critique of something fashion related, and reading similarly amateurish bloggers doing the same thing. positive blogging should surely be aiming to share an individual style point of view, to build a community, and mostly to inspire. no?
    anyway, thanks susie for sharing your favourite quotes on here!

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