Fabric Wizardry

Fabric Wizardry

When I was still at Dazed, a curious triangular cardboard arrived lying by the filing cabinets and nestled inside, in amongst a mass of shredded tissue paper, was a resin-cast ultra-realistic replica of a dead chicken.  Here's photographic proof of this artefact.  Later that week, some cardboard penguins courtesy of the Dover Street Market x Peter Jensen window display also arrived and chicken and penguins were getting chummy by the rusty filing cabinets.  That chicken was the emblem of designer Omer Asim's S/S 10 debut collection, a realistic and somewhat ridiculous object representative of death.  I've been in touch with this Sudanese designer for a while, exchanging lookbooks, emails and not-well-timed emails.  Asim studied architecture at The Bartlett and then went into the United Nations Development Program.  He then made a turn for fashion and worked under Vivienne Westwood as well as in the costuming effort for the Harry Potter saga.

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Architecture.  Global outlook.  Wizardry.  Those three things are certainly evident in his debut S/S 10 collection above.  Themes aside (the collection was inspired by Kevin Carter's The Vulture and the Baby), the thing that is most apparent is Asim's intuition with creating defined lines within a garment that dictate the ensuing volumes and overall silhouette.  The chicken also turns up as a literal pale pinkish print that from afar could be anything from blushing roses to coloured smoke.  

This collection came complete with trumpeting birds, a defined statement as well as evocative imagery and film.  What follows in the A/W 10-11 collection is a slightly cleaner evolution of the unexpected shapes and lines contouring the body.  The patterns are purposely circular and pod-like which creates the pockets of volume.  We could get poetic and talk about the foetal nuances in Asim's work but from my perspective, I'm more interested in the structural feats that somehow manage to avoid becoming overwrought…

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… as I came to discover when another triangular box arrived at the office.  This time, it was a lighter affair and nestled in amongst tissue paper was that flash of pale pink again but fortunately, it turned out to be a wearable form of this colour…

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… a diaphanous organdy creation trimmed with pleated satin-organza that informs the way the dress juts out at the neck and along down the front as well as the back.  Asim terms this shade a 'winter pink' and this shade is echoed in one of the pieces from the A/W 10-11 collection above.  For me though, a flash of palest pink has no seasonal boundaries and right now when contrasted with the slight fuddy-duddy-ness of my mum's old Burberry trench, the dress is tamed, contained and left to stun and shine against the backdrop of the Uniqlo khaki skinny jeans…  

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(With Burberry trench, Unqilo t-shirt, Uniqlo jeans, Marni shoes)

41 comments

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  1. Ioana Liliana Gheorghe

    2010-05-02 at 11:45 PM

    His architectural background is indeed quite visible in his works, and so is his involvement with wizardry and the iconic Vivienne Westwood. As for your dress, it is really a work of art. I would have said more a peachy-pink, even a dusty-pink, rather than a winter-pink, regardless you are right, a pale pink transcends seasons. At first I wasn’t too convinced about the Burberry coat. The outer color was a great addition, what I was more worried about was the inner print. Yet, the more I look at it, the more it makes sens, it picks up the pink nicely, and it also balances the black and dark bej in the shoes.

  2. Madeleine Louise

    2010-05-02 at 11:48 PM

    That is absolutely amazing, the detailing in the pleats is fantastic.
    Cheers,
    Madeleine Louise
    http://www.wekilledcouture.com

  3. Urooba

    2010-05-02 at 11:55 PM

    Wow.
    I think I love you.

  4. Frances Segismundo

    2010-05-02 at 11:58 PM

    wow those garments look fab! And you look great in it – love the colour

  5. Winnie

    2010-05-02 at 11:59 PM

    The dress is amazing, a perfect layering piece for your wardrobe. Loving the Burberry trench too, love that you chose such a classic style!

  6. T.

    2010-05-03 at 12:08 AM

    That dress they send you is amazing, as well as the long black one! And your long trench is also amazing.

  7. Charlotte

    2010-05-03 at 1:32 AM

    Wow those dresses are really incredible -stunning. You are so lucky to receive such a gift!! What a beautiful dress. Cx
    http://stylerail.blogspot.com

  8. Laveena

    2010-05-03 at 3:53 AM

    Wow Susie, the organdy dress looks so cool with the khaki skinnies and Burberry trench. The way your pair pieces together; it’s so inspiring. 🙂

  9. Emily

    2010-05-03 at 3:54 AM

    Wizardry is a great word. The pieces manage to be whimsical and structural at the same time. Looks amazing on you.
    http://www.mock-off.com

  10. lafashionelle

    2010-05-03 at 3:57 AM

    Nice dress, loved the pastel colors! Loved your Marni wedges too! 🙂

  11. fashion westie

    2010-05-03 at 3:57 AM

    I LOVE PLEATS! I SEMI-LOVE PINK! Put together this way I think I love both. Wonderful dress.

  12. Eli

    2010-05-03 at 4:10 AM

    wow, the construction on this dress is sublime…it looks great on you

  13. John

    2010-05-03 at 5:17 AM

    Absolutely stunning. I love the way that you have put the outfit together.

  14. Kamicha

    2010-05-03 at 5:23 AM

    Oh wow, I really dig his work. That combination of soft cuts combined to sharp pleats really looks fresh.
    And the outfit with the dress is great!

  15. x Corrine/Frock & Roll x

    2010-05-03 at 6:42 AM

    Amazing.

  16. lolo

    2010-05-03 at 7:45 AM

    that dress is truly beautiful. such an uniquely edgy grace to it. and nice pairing with the tied trench!

  17. Jen

    2010-05-03 at 7:56 AM

    Definitely my favourite outfit of yours ever! I love it!
    J 😀

  18. Miss Scarlett

    2010-05-03 at 8:07 AM

    That is a gorgeous dress, love how you styled it!
    http://scarlettswonderland.blogspot.com

  19. jeanneberre

    2010-05-03 at 9:17 AM

    Tr√®s beau et impressionnant travail de mati√®res. Je m’exprime en fran√ßais car mon anglais est tr√®s tr√®s faible pour ainsi dire nul !!! Merci pour toutes ces d√©couvertes, tu effectues un vrai travail de r√©dactrice. C’est toujours avec autant de plaisir et d’excitations que je clique √† cette adresse, quelle va √™tre la surprise du jour !!! Malheureusement je n’ai pas encore trouv√© un blog fran√ßais qui ouvre des fen√™tres sur la jeune cr√©ation fran√ßaise. Dommage. Merci encore !!!

  20. kaye

    2010-05-03 at 11:58 AM
  21. Anna

    2010-05-03 at 1:48 PM

    I love this color combination
    http://annakocsis.carbonmade.com/

  22. Clare

    2010-05-03 at 2:40 PM

    Wow, stunning! What a lovely dress… Not so sure about the ceramic chicken though…
    http://iliketweet.blogspot.com/
    x

  23. BusiChic

    2010-05-03 at 3:00 PM

    ooh la la – c’est vraiment magnifique

  24. Zoe Badley

    2010-05-03 at 3:12 PM

    Oh good gracious I’m in love with that dress that was sent to you! Just wanted to let you know your blog has become a serious inspiration and help for spotting trends ! Thank you

  25. monica

    2010-05-03 at 3:33 PM

    gorgeous!!

  26. Alicia

    2010-05-03 at 5:59 PM

    Oh WOW. The work that must be put in to those garments.

  27. Sophia

    2010-05-03 at 10:49 PM

    I love everything about this piece, the colour, the sheerness, the pleats, the shapes, its just beautiful. It somehow reminds me of clouds. I also love your Marni shoes ;). <3
    skiepies.blogspot.com/

  28. SwanDiamondRose

    2010-05-04 at 3:12 AM

    these pieces are really really nice together. want trench.

  29. reub-envision

    2010-05-04 at 4:20 AM

    your over all looks with this one is one of my faves of all the ones I have seen to date

  30. Asset Management Melbourne

    2010-05-04 at 4:26 AM

    Totally jealous you. Looks so amazing that dress.
    I love the black white collection.
    The green is also adorable.
    Love your blog!!

  31. i-lovemondays

    2010-05-04 at 5:37 PM

    I absolutely adore the soft, dream-like effect of the satin organza. Love the combo with the skinny jeans and trench, and the colours work well together. Well done 🙂

  32. Kathrin

    2010-05-04 at 11:01 PM

    wonderful beautiful…you are lucky! Doesn’t it feel like it was your birthday when you get a present like this? xokathrin

  33. Roxanna Bina

    2010-05-05 at 1:18 AM
  34. maria

    2010-05-05 at 11:04 PM

    Whaaa well that’s a cool box…but most importantly, what a great dress!

  35. CHIQUI

    2010-05-07 at 12:43 PM

    ¬°¬°MARAVILLOSO NENA!!

  36. Kirsty

    2010-05-09 at 8:43 PM

    I love how you layer, layering is something I can’t seem to do. That dress is really incredible.. I think I’m in love!
    http://fashionsmut.blogspot.com/

  37. Dressing style

    2010-09-23 at 7:30 AM

    Wow im totally jealous with you. Looks so amazing that dress. https://www.yousendit.com/transfer.php?action=batch_download&send_id=817789614&email=7cff47bb7cdcb76fbfa15e66c81a1961I love all the colours and mild orange is eye popping. Simply great to see you in such wonderful collections.

  38. Dance Costume

    2010-09-26 at 6:39 AM

    nice, rather fashion!

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