IMG_0149  >> D&G yesterday marked my first Milano show and frankly I surprised myself how much I ended up liking it.  I mean, it's unashamedly taking themes of "skiing" (really BIG air quotation marks) and exploiting elements to an OTT point.  OF COURSE nobody is actually going to be taking to the piste wearing this stuff.  It's sort of like if there was a bimbo skit in a film and she's off to go "skiing" (again, big air quotes), these are the outfits she'd come up with.  And that's actually no bad thing…

Two notes really…I was struck by the reindeer sweaters which made me dig up this photo I snapped of the lovely Lynn Yaeger (she says I dress "cute"… awww gosh…) at the Cushnie et Ochs show in New York.  She was telling Julia Frakes about her collection of reindeer sweaters and took off her coat to reveal her yellow reindeer friends.  She's got quite a collection supposedly.  Will these D&G versions make the cut… perhaps the jumpsuit/onesie might be too much of an ask.  

I on the other hand am all for the onesie.  I'd also like to wear a reindeer Kigu suit over it just to add reindeer on top of reindeer…

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IMG_0103 Then there are these shorts.   Y'all know how much I'm addicted to my Tao knitted shorts.  I am however loathe to wear them these days as overwearing has caused severe bobbling.  Before I take to knitting myself a pair, I might consider these slightly puffed out cuties which are not entirely knitted but do have knitted cuffs and waistbands (brilliant for indulging in mountains of fondue action no?).  I quite like them in the PU and floral satin fabric.  I've deliberately cut off the lower half though because instead of furry muk luk type boots (which the models were tripping up in so I'm assuming the heel is a little on the high side…), I'm considering these H by Harris quilted leather gaiters from his new collection that was presented on Wednesday as part of the Fashion East Menswear installations.  He's doing his famed quilted jacket and backpack combo in more colours and has also added bits of womenswear too.

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I always get a little uneasy when people say things like "I can't wait for your review!".  As if I'm equipped enough to 'review' a collection properly.  AS IF I have that sort of knowledge and know-how to pass judgement on someone else's work in a way that supposedly matters to a designer.  Nay, all I can muster is just another opinion and it doesn't matter a jot in the scheme of the fashion pecking order which I'm perfectly happy about.  

I haven't talked in depth about Christopher Kane's work since his early neon lace basically because the Scot had me at fluoro pink lace combined with a chunky zipper, and really, I haven't looked back since, loving his output of work on some level or another.  I can't keep the trap shut though about his latest A/W 10-11 collection which seems to have divided opinion somewhat judging by some weets I've seen.  

It's a pretty forward-gut feeling where word diarrhoea is compelled to come out.  I was jolted after the show and whilst purely on an aesthetic level, it all spoke to me – beautiful embroidery sitting on an unexpected background in all the right places – what I think hit me the most was how it resonated with my own sentiments about contrasts and notions of mixing and matching.  That, boxing me up into a niche is quite possibly the worse thing you could do and likewise, these flowers that on a piece of white muslin would look rather fey and twee, on a slick bit of PVC or a lean and taut leather dress, it all becomes a different story.  Kane's never been one to be boxed into an aesthetic of course, playing with disparate motifs each season but it seems with this A/W 10-11 collection, the message is even more forceful: "Don't run around resting on laurels and cliches!", or at least, that's the message that I'd like to think it came with.  The so-called new minimal movement may be coming in thick and fast thanks to Phoebe Philo at Celine but I'm grateful to those that will have the conviction to think that an embroidered dandelion on some black PVC could ever be a viable combination and as a result away runs away with it so much that it goes to a place that will divide opinion (though I guarantee, getting up close and personal with that embroidery will melt the hearts of naysayers).  It goes without saying that the whole collection has me beadily watching the bank account but that is of course the superfluous conclusion when at the core of it, what I'm really trying to say is that Kane's daring slapped me in the face as if to say "Don't fear, just enjoy my deranged flowerbed walk…"

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(Photography by Kasia Bobula for Dazed Digital)

Taken backstage at the show when I couldn't quite tear myself away from this patent jacket with a sheepskin collar…

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P.S. I very nearly hyper-ventilated when I was touching up the embroidered patent biker jacket above but I think I outdid my own methods of hyper-ventilation when I got a sneak peek of the Versus collection Christopher Kane (saw the Versace rehearsal too which is equally hot…) has done which will be presented this Sunday.  Obviously, no pics until then but it's a giant mass of hot potato and daaang, you just can't touch the hotness.

>> Yo Miuccia, Fan Girl here!  Waving at you, screaming, possibly even coming up to you to ask you to autograph my back with a nice and thick sharpie pen.    

Hah…now there's a scenario that is most likely NOT going to happen tonight at my first Prada show ever… lest I want to embarrass myself and in fact, I'm still deliberating whether to wear this Miuccia Prada tee that I DID manage to score after posting about the Live Alive fashion rock tees that are still on show at the Brachfeld Gallery (me THINKS they have produced more so get emailing to them via their blog – they're EUR50 a pop).  The head is saying no, but the inner obnoxious delinquent is half tempted.  This Milan rookie needs to calm the eff down.  I'll trial it first at a Prada store first (maybe not the Sloane Street branch…) and then upgrade to the show if the occasion should arise again.

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>> I may have Tweeted my egg-citement but I've just been bumped off a painfully early flight to Milan and will be seeing D&G (!!! – sadly not Dolce as I have to return on Saturday), PRADA (!!!), VERSACE (!!!).  Seems silly to be adding triple exclamation marks to shows considering I've done shows at New York and Paris for a few seasons now.  Still, I'm in foreign territory here as I've never been to Milan as a city and in my head, shows like that warrant excessive exclamation marks spawned from the warped perception I have of the OTT nature of Italian fashion from watching FTV.  I may come back and edit out some exclamation marks if needs be to avoid sniggers from people who are seasoned Milan-goers.  For now, I'm allowing myself to be a giddy with glee. 

Seeing as I'm so egg-cited, I might as well give some egg-timer-needed reminders on the shows that are getting in on the live streaming action (that said, Dolce have been doing it since 2005…).  If you're an iPhone person (I'm not… and refuse to be glued to one like a bot…*cough cough*), then please do let me know whether watching the D&G and Dolce & Gabbana shows whilst riding the 55 bus was an enjoyable experience. 

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And of course Prada are in on it too… 

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et… Jil Sander

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