GFW 2009: The Complex Palette

>> First off, apologies if the GFW blogging has been a bit random and unorganised.  Rather than covering every show and clogging up your page with tons of images, I'd prefer to be a bit more selective and post the stuff that is making my heart go dush dush dush.  Speakign of dush dush dush music, soundtrack choices at shows have been veering towards the hardcore… or of the Kitsune ilk… or ubiquitous M.I.A… still, got my dose of Passion Pit at the Nottingham Trent show this morning so I'm at ease…

Anyway, there's a bit of a summer bias here as I'm particularly attracted to this muted palette of softy softy pastels but made complicated and less saccharine by the construction, the materials used and the overall mood created, subverting connontations of our associations with colours like BABY blue or CANDY pink… nothing baby or candy-like about any of these collections…

Alice McColm from Middlesex (strictly not part of the GFW schedule as they showed last week…) showed a knitwear collection that had delicate features of all a sugary lady who lunches but with the different knitwear techniques achieved something quite ethereal… the lilac faux fur jacket and the lattice sleeves is especially mesmerising…


Yun Lin from Kingston took foody colours (mocha, mint, toffee… Devon cream?) and made soft structures out of them, warping trenches, adding rounded shoulders and created a serene yet strong collection… definitely one of the highlights from the show that I still have tons to write about…


This morning, at Salford University Gemma Clements completely overturned the idea of Liberty-print clad Stepfrod wives and produced a collection both sweet and sinister… makes me look at my Liberty print Nikes in a completely different light after seeing these masked-up models.  The contradiction between tight catsuit and the Liberty print is also a strange one I've yet to see a designer explore… the innocecse of pastels have defintiely been stripped away…


27 Replies to “GFW 2009: The Complex Palette”

  1. I hate to see a miserable model. They look bored and tired in Yun Lin’s show. I’m sure part of that is the make-up, but the dour expressions are very distracting.
    On a less complain-y note, I agree with Lucy. That second Alice McColm dress is gorgeous. I’m also loving that lilac jacket.

  2. Alice McColm´s collection made me think of cooton candy, dunno why.
    I´m quite into liberty print at the moment, though it feels a bit dull cause I see all kind of different flower pattern everywhere on everyone.

  3. word of the day, Saccharine!!! Yun Lins collection is sublime, actually Alexander James (also Kingston) had an exceptional menswear line!

  4. Gorgeous stuff! I’m slightly–well, more than “slightly,” considerably disturbed by the models masked in Liberty prints.

  5. The first one reminds me of those old chenille bathrobes. The second one is a little too android for my taste. The third one reminds me of burn victims. That being said, they are all beautifully done.

  6. OH MY GOD!! they’re beyond beautiful!!! I came across this blog just today, Susie, you’re a genius!!

  7. Do a bit of google on Leigh Bowrey and you’ll see where the entire idea for the mask/cat suit came from. of a fashion icon. kinda sad. because so few people know who he was anymore.

  8. thinks that ariel really doesn’t know what she’s talking about! Fair enough there are similarities but you could say that with a lot of fashion nowadays, look at Margeila’s collection would you say that this genius has stole that off Bowery also….I think not. You can’t take away the fact that this girl has worked god damn hard on this collection and if you actually took the time out to look at it properly you would know that all the fabric has been printed and the garments are made to match the body suits, maybe you may appreciate it more. Why don’t you post your collection, think before you speak next time.

  9. あなたのUMバラ心配しないでください

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