You've heard me bang on about the fact that so-called wardrobe staples that people spout off time and time again (the 'essential' Breton-striped tee is the silliest of them all…) are a load of bollocks when really each person has their own essentials that fits their persona, daily routine and personal style.  The perfect black jacket/blazer though is a different kettle of fish that I didn't subscribe to until I got my Lanvin tuxedo jacket.  A large drycleaning bill solely dedicated to that jacket is testament to how much wear it has gotten.  

So Vietnam-born, Berlin-educated, Parisian-based, designer T√î Long-Nam swoops in and comes up with a first proper selling collection (he was a competitor at Hyeres in 2006, the same year that my friend Anthony Vaccarello won…).  A mixed experience of assisting Patti Wilson, working in Lanvin menswear and Valentino as well as currently working on Superfine London points me towards tell tale clues that Long-Nam's work goes deeper than this initial A/W 09 collection of jackets and that all will be properly revealed during S/S 10.  

Still, from the point of view of a perfect black jacket (PBJ..!  Best worn whilst eating the OTHER PBJ….), Long-Nam has come up trumps with this collection of signature jackets, all stemming from the shapes of muscles of the human body.  Yes, another collection based on body anatomy.  When will it end you ask?  In an all black palette however, the muscle fibre shape resulting in curved seams, round finishings and contrast of textures, can only be subtly detected and instead come across as a proper design motif in its own right.  Reeling off the fabrics is a tactile mind fest in itself; perforated silk satin, cashmere, wool garbadine and lacqued crepe de chine.  Added to Long-Nam's consideration for perfect ergonomics in the jackets and matching trousers and skirt, he's set out a versatile number of PBJ's that I'd gladly name as a wardrobe essential should anybody want to conduct that done-to-death question.  

TÔ Long-Nam_ADV FW 2009-1
TÔ Long-Nam_ADV FW 2009-2
TÔ Long-Nam_EBOOK FW 2009S-3

TÔ Long-Nam_EBOOK FW 2009S-5
TÔ Long-Nam_EBOOK FW 2009S-6
TÔ Long-Nam_EBOOK FW 2009S-7
TÔ Long-Nam_EBOOK FW 2009S-8
TÔ Long-Nam_EBOOK FW 2009S-14
TÔ Long-Nam_EBOOK FW 2009S-16

Comments (34)

  1. kim says:

    These would be my ‘perfect blazer’, I like em well tailored.

  2. Wow these are gorgeous! and im terribly jealous of your lanvin jacket 🙂

  3. boubou says:

    very interesting shapes 🙂 i would die for ine of them 😉

  4. cassiopeia says:

    LOVE the details of cut! So interesting! 😀

  5. Cheryl Lynn says:

    What a wonderful spread. I love this look, this jacket is fabulous!

  6. Stephanie says:

    I love the detailing on the back of the blazers! So perfect!

  7. That jacket is pretty great. However, I can’t stop staring at the shiny, dotted blouse underneath.

  8. jules says:

    wow these are amazing! i am enamored with the fact that he used human anatomy as his main focus in the creation of these– sheer ingenuity

  9. dust says:

    I guess that these are pretty close to the perfection, as “perfect” should feel as “natural” as possible.

  10. evalaure says:

    Impeccable and amazing detail work! I have to say I’m very impressed

  11. Helen-LG says:

    Oh I like those.. They are fantastic! Really like the jackets but not so sure about the trousers.. Love the materials you mention too, I like my clothes to be identifiable in the dark!

  12. Karoline says:

    I just have to say that the jacket is HOT!

  13. Faith says:

    Ooooh lovely, I definitely like fitted blazers more that the “boyfriend” style.

  14. Alice says:

    yes! This label also does fantastic women’s shirts. x

  15. Miss Glitzy says:

    Love the jackets, really perfect.

  16. Melanie says:

    These are wonderful, some of the trousers are also quite intriguing. I rather like the subtle addition of a naked muscle man in some of the photos too.

  17. Chloe says:

    It’s a hit, I love it 😀

  18. Alicia says:

    Amazing tailoring on these. I love how the inspiration is subtle, but has a great impact on the overall look.
    And the photos are incredible.

  19. diane says:

    The subtle detailing on the third one from the bottom is too great for words.

  20. Miann says:

    Oh these are amazing! So nice to see this biological spin on tailoring.

  21. miss sophie says:

    this has got to be one of the coolest concepts ever. the first rendition of a coattail jacket is brilliant, and sexy as hell.

  22. tasha says:

    to echo someone else…the third from the bottom is perfect.
    I love it all, though. So beautiful.

  23. tanya says:

    mmm peanut butter and jam (not a fan of peanut butter and jelly i must say) would indeed be the perfect accompaniment to one of these jackets

  24. Denise says:

    I don’t know crap about jacket construction but I’d hazard to guess that getting those shoulder inserts and pleats so perfect takes a hell of a lot of skill. Gorgeous.

  25. Freya says:

    Awesome photo shoot

  26. now you’re speaking my language.
    PBJ LOL! now i’ll have that song stuck in my head.

  27. Black jackets are so important I agree.I have a linen Isabel Marant one that I have to just handwash because I can’t keep up with the whole drycleaning thing.The dart detail on the back of the TO Long Nam one is a little like the tailoring on the Todd Lynn jackets but definitely more feminine I reckon.

  28. lucia says:

    all the looks are amezing……..
    i want to buy evrythings,where i can find them???????
    and what about the picures??????!!!!
    these guy are just incredible
    i love them

  29. LU says:

    A M E Z I N G
    the cuts the concept

  30. lucia says:

    all the looks are amezing……..
    i want to buy everythings,where i can find them???????
    and what about the pictures??????!!!!
    these guy are just incredible
    i love them
    sorry there was some mistakes

  31. beautiful. and i like the man accessory. or furniture.

  32. danielle says:

    this is an amazing looking collection. nothing beats a subtle detail and it’s so refreshing to know that something as basic as a suit or blazer can still be so invigorating.

  33. Adeline says:

    WOW! I love this jacket! On my way to get a blazer as good as that. Good inspiration.

  34. Allie says:

    The last two pics are amazing! And since I never get tired of black pieces I’d totally love to have everyone of them. 😀

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