I don’t give New Zealand enough lovin’ and for that I apologise so as it is a rare occasion (I will try and make it less of a rarity…) I’ll go for a NZ oldie…. I’m sure all Kiwians know a fair bit about Nom*D.  They did make it over to LFW in 1999 and were supposed to show their S/S 08-9 collection in London back in September.  It didn’t happen but for a collection that is based on minute details and turning things inside out, I doubt a catwalk show would have done it justice anyway.

This "Insiders" collection turns to menswear as an inspiration but not in the usual way…. vintage men’s scarves get turned into a print on a dress.  Tuxedos and waistcoats are softened up as opposed to being replicated; they’re cropped and shorn and their zips are placed proudly on the outside.  Reversely, women’s petticoats are toughened up with tie dye and chopped up to make components of a dress.  Inspiration aside, the entire collection is ripe for layering over and over again which of course pleases me to know end and being an Antipodean S/S 08-9 collection, it’s actually available for sale on General Cucumber right now.  I see zips in all the right places, loose enough silhouettes for layering away and prints that are subdued enough to be mixed together.  I promise I will do more NZ investigation…      

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Hair as a material on this blog has never gotten a good reaction…."Ewww…that creeps me out!!!!!!" is the usual one and rightly so as it’s the provenance of the hair that gets to people….where does it come from and what the bloody hell is it doing on a garment?  I’m 100% sure now there is no grave digging involved and in the same way that real hair wigs exist, human hair in clothing is totally legit and seeing as I’m intrigued by it as a  material I’ll continue to cut the hair some slack.

Slack being the operative word here as the pieces below and the jacket that Roisin Murphy was wearing at the Luella show in September (I totally forgot to mention that I’d like to dive into Ms. Murphy’s ‘borrowed/stage’ wardrobe in my FAQ…) are by LCF-grad Gemma Slack, from her debut S/S 09 collection.  It’s no surprise that Gemma did a two year stint with Gareth Pugh, the other hair-user, but there’s a feminine sensibility to Slack’s pieces that make the hair almost undetectable.  Rather than shouting out "Hey its human hair over here!", it is used rather stealthly…in some of the lookbook pictures, I can’t even tell where real hair ends and hair on garment starts.  There’s also the tailoring that adds an air of refinement to pieces that are underlying with something darker.  I’m looking forward to seeing what other kinds of hair-raising techniques Slack uses for next season (sorry…couldn’t resist it…)
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Shorts over trousers?  Hmmm…. actually never crossed my mind.  Shorts under sheer trousers, yes, been there done that.  Shorts over leggings, yes but then that’s practically the same as wearing them over tights.   Over proper trousers or jeans?  Not so much.  When a reader emailed me pondering this question with "Shorts over Trousers" as the subject line, I was a little stumped.  a) I don’t wear trousers that often let alone attempt to layer them and b) had to dig around a bit for suitable sturdy shorts, most of mine being the flimsy type that are useful for layering underneath things. 

Oh well, in the botched up words of Whitney Houston, it may not be right, but it’s ok because it’s nearly the weekend… and I’m not one to say nay to things…

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(Lanvin tuxedo jacket, Topshop black double layered vest, vintage denim shorts, vintage sequinned trousers, Sam Edelman boots)

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(Ulrika Sandstrom shirt, vintage paint splattered top, Topshop sequin black shorts, Jens Laugesen navy trousers, Accessorize navy blue ballet flats)

Always nice to find another way of wearing these sheer trews…

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(Carola Euler Stills grey jersey cardi-jacket, Topshop double layered black vest, lace-edged navy shorts from god knows where, Raf Simons navy sheer trousers, Topshop grey ankle boots)

Do robots relax?  Do they to get to take their batteries out and chill with their other unplugged robot friends?  This //ROBOT:BLK:SEQ// has taken a break, not from black sequins, the primary function of the bot, but from hard edged sequins and has softened up a bit with his vintage black sequined suit.  Somebody asked me what are my favourite eBay sellers are when the truth is that any vintage eBay stores that I did frequent have long been abandoned since the prices have hiked up quite a bit.  When you have competend instant vintage fixes from the likes of Urban Collection and Nasty Gal, from eBay, I’d rather go for the more random buys from random sellers.  This velvet jacket with a sequinned gigantic collar with matching loose-ish sequinned silk trousers was sold by someone who was also selling duct tape, ceramic woodland creatures and a vacuum cleaner. 

Perfect for a black sequinned robot to relax in…   

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