I‚Äôve always been a little bit confused as to why the editor big wigs like to rain down on Riccardo Tisci‚Äôs parade since his appointment at Givenchy. It borders on victimisation especially in opposition to the way that Nicholas Ghesquiere consistently gets showered with praise. Criticism such as ‚Äòoverly-gimmicky‚Äô or ‚Äòtrying too hard‚Äô are the usual crows.
However, the crowing seems to have stopped after the AW08-9 collection was revealed and some have called the collection his best yet and that he has grown up and got his vision all under control. Perhaps his design sensibilities have always captured what I love which is, and excuse me if this sounds like a throwaway phrase, an alternative vision of beauty, subverted romance. In this 2007 interview with Riccard Tisci, written by Cathy Horyn, she notes the difference between the reactions from the ‘young women’ and the editors, how the former have taken to Tisci’s designs more so than the latter. Perhaps I’m just one of the ‘young women’ who isn’t analysing Tisci’s work with considerations of whether he is fulfilling the duties of a creative director at an old French fashion house and whether he is attaining perfection. His experiments and expressions through the seasons seem to always capitvate me in some way even if I don’t like the entirity of the collections.
Fortunately, the AW08-9 collection full of Spanish matador influences, Elizabetha high necks and plisse excess is singing to me but not because I feel he has finally come ‘out of the "promising" category into a place where he deserves to be seen as a designer who has come of age’ (to quote Sarah Mower), but because he has fully explored and pushed a vision that I have seen before in his work.
Hopefully, I’ll get to gush and congratulate him in person as he is the president of this year’s Hyeres festival!