People will probably feel that I have no right to be writing about something that is way before my time and that I had no physical contact with but from this very old V magazine interview and the accompanying images and this YouTube video of Fashion Aid in 1985, I am clamouring for Bodymap, a British label of the 80’s founded by David Holah and Stevie Stewart, that ultimately failed because of over-hype and under-funding (two failures of a lot of British independent designers…), to return and prosper in today’s enthusiastic fashion climate. It’s hard to find the collections documented online but with names like "Barbie Takes a Trip". "Querelle Meets Olive Oil" and "The Cat in the Hat", I know I want to see more…
The archive pieces styled by Tabitha Simmons, and shot by Craig McDean here for V Magazine 27 highlight the resiliance of the pieces. As in, I would wear any of these outfits straight away if I had the chance. From the insightful interview with Stevie Stewart, it sounds like Bodymap’s failing was its inability to build a successful business model and it was through no fault of the clothes. Perhaps their initial dreams of building a Bodymap empire are too far-fetched but I’m certain that a rail of Bodymap sitting in any department store or boutique today would fly. Innovative cut stretch fabric pieces, sweatshirting with lycra, pseudo-ethnic prints, misplaced addition of volume…. I want me some of that even without the the attachment of the Bodymap label.
Also, how much fun is everyone having in this Bodymap ‘catwalk’ show as part of 1985’s Fashion Aid (could we possibly handle a 21st century Fashion Aid..except minus any self-righteous U2 Bono affiliations…)?
So a new season rolls in, and you start hearing words constructed with hyphens bandied about. These mini trend nuggets are designed to be used very liberally for the next six months without much thought as to whether the item of clothing actually encapsulates that word or not, but it’s always best to bung things into trend categories right? Examples being nu-rave, nu-grave, boho-tec and drum roll please, for SS08, comes techno-tribe. The Observer fashion supplement by Tank describes this ‘as the most complex trend to emerge’ combining multicultural pillage and 90’s raving lunacy with prints and plumes clashing with dip dye and reflective surfaces.
The former part of this post was really an excuse to rant about trend nugget words but the latter part is far more positive and though people may attribute Toga’s SS08 collection with the aforementioned phrase, I’d rather not think of it as a collection that is simply going with the trend flows but is mixing it up in a very unique way. Toga is a Japanese label that is little known outside Japan but has three stores in Japan. Yasuka Furato, the designer created ‘Toga’ in 1997 and no, she doesn’t create draped Grecian dresses every season but rather an eclectic mix of textile research and play on volume.
The SS08 Trojan Horse collection references not just the Greek myth but also the definition of the term as a ‘concealed strategem’ or a ‘destructive computer program’. So in other words, a collection with a lot of hidden messages, depth and if you REALLY MUST attribute it with a trend phrase, ‘techno-tribe’. I love the way fabrics look like they have been selected in a ramshackle way but then pieced together with great symmetry. Kind of like an clever usage of fabric remnants.
Sadly Toga is a damn hard difficult label to find in Europe but thanks to Dover Street Market, the situation is not completely destitute. Apologies if this post went a bit rant-y….just stare at the image and hopefully, it will obliterate all traces of fash-bitch.
The title of this post will probably mean something to you if you are a hardcore fash-blog reader as Blue Floppy Hat aka Drusilla has been a long time reader of Style Bubble. It therefore bought a smile to my face when I picked up this ‘Blue Floppy Hat’ (such a blog-nerd I am that those three words need to be in inverted commas with caps) in the Topshop sale (sadly sold out online now), because I a) am now in posession of a hat that will brighten up most dull days and b) it will remind me of the intelligent and complimentary commentary of a wonderful fellow blogger.
I don’t normally wear new things straight away but today, combined with a Marc Jacobs AW07-8 palette of blues, oranges and yellows and some layering fit for a windy day, it really had to be done.
I do apologise if this is all old news for you and if you’re tired of SS08 ad talk but seeing a mag addict like myself is going to be flicking through these ads for the next five months or so, it pays to be a little bit aware. Inez & Vinoodh have shot the Yves Saint Laurent ads again for SS08 and it features Kate Moss peering inside the window of the ‘Fondation Pierre Berg√© / Yves Saint Laurent’ in Paris. Let’s forget the question of does Miss Moss look good blah blah blah as I have no particular interest in whether she should be doing the ad in the first place or whether her fringe is working… seriously I mean it… zero interest whatsoever.
Instead let’s look at the delectable combination of acrylic star necklace and an immaculate grey jersey strapless dress. It’s these two seemingly naive and non-lux materials that I’ve always had a bit of a love affair with and though YSL’s SS08 collection didn’t floor me, the ad highlights how Stefano Pilati has skillfully crafted these materials into something that doesn’t suggest ‘naive’ at all. Grey jersey and acrylic – two definite check list items for me to accumulate in the coming months.