Like Fashionologie, I too was counting down the days until the special guest-edited issue of Vogue Paris would be coming out especially as the guest-editor in question is Charlotte Gainsbourg. An interesting choice because though she is a muse to Nicholas Ghesquiere and is the face of Gerard Darel, she doesn’t strike me as a ‘fashionista’ or perhaps, there lies the beauty of letting her loose on the magazine. I haven’t gotten hold of the issue but having seen these scans…well I now know what will be weighing me down when I come back from Paris on Sunday and what I’ll be holed up with a cup of tea
‘La Science du R√™ve’ (a word play on the ‘Everyone-must-watch-at-least-one-because-it’s-so-fantastically-brilliant’ film Les Sciences du R√™ve – The Science of Sleep which Gainsbourg starred in last year), shot by Craig McDean has Charlotte Gainsborg in the new season’s artful, fantasy dresses as styled by Carine Roitfeld. Despite my slight ‘Meh’ towards Prada’s footwear, I must say everything has been used to stunning effect here. There’s a also a quiet seductiveness in the way Charlotte poses along with the help of the tastefully sexy Sabbia Rose hoisery that makes the images even more alluring.
I like black. I like shiny. I like shiny black. Wet-look black in the right hands is superb and with fabrics like PE, latex and PVC being taken hold of not just by designer but by the high street, the results by and large have been A-ok. It’s the sort of aesthetic that would take most high street stores/labels just a leeeeetle bit out of their comfort zone. For example, American Apparel’s black latex leggings in comparison to the rest of their cotton stock stuck out a little. Topshop’s PE skirt sold out in a flash. They’re risk items that are likely to cause a bit of fuss and so the stores have made a correct estimation of just how latched onto the ‘shiny black’ trend people are (I may be speaking from a purely UK-centric point of view here….).
However, Pinko have taken hold of shiny black and I just don’t know what to make of the results. It takes a lot of strength to blank out the Sarah Harding (Girls Aloud)-esque model (courtesy of ASOS…) and posing and see the dresses out of context. There are aspects of them that remind me of Hannah Marshall’s work which of course is far superior in quality and in execution. The black leather, wet look satin, ruching and body-con shapes should all be enticing but something is falling short. The pleated detail cap sleeved dress is especially intriguing as it almost looks industrial with its oozing black tar look, yet something is just not quite right. Perhaps the trend got the better of Pinko and they just simply ran away with it too far. Plus, dresses that have an indescribable failing, definitely falls shorter when you see the prices…. (¬£200?!)
I may be attracted to all things black and shiny but there I do cast things with a critical eye as well.